The Himalayan giant
- ISBN: 978-1-912560-19-6272 pages
- Doug Scott
- Publication date
- 1 Jul 2021
This is the order form for the first edition, hardback
Kangchenjunga is the third highest mountain in the world and a notoriously difficult and dangerous mountain to climb. First climbed from the west in 1955 by a British team comprising Joe Brown, George Band, Tony Streather and Norman Hardie, it waited over twenty years for a second ascent. The third ascent, from the north, was made in 1979 by a four-man team including the visionary British alpinist Doug Scott.
Completed before his death in 2020, and edited by Catherine Moorehead, Kangchenjunga is Doug Scott’s final book. Scott explores the mountain and its varied people – the mountain sits on the border between Nepal and Sikkim in north-east India – before going on to look at Western approaches and early climbing attempts on the mountain. Kangchenjunga was in fact long believed to be the highest mountain in the world, until in the nineteenth century it was demonstrated that Peak XV – Everest – was taller. Out of respect for the beliefs of the Sikkimese, no climber has ever set foot on the very top of Kangchenjunga, the sacred summit.
Scott’s own relationship with the mountain began in 1978, three years after his first British ascent of Everest with Dougal Haston. The assembled team featured some of the greatest mountaineers in history: Scott, Joe Tasker, Peter Boardman and Georges Bettembourg. The plan was for a stripped-down expedition the following spring – minimal Sherpa support, no radios, largely self-financed. It was the first time a mountain of this scale had been attempted by a new and difficult route without the use of oxygen, and with such a small team. Scott, Tasker and Boardman summited on 16 May 1979, further consolidating their legends in this golden era.
Kangchenjunga is Doug Scott’s tribute to this sacred mountain, a paean for a Himalayan giant, written by a giant of Himalayan climbing.
*Kangchenjunga will be printed on FSC-approved Woodfree 80gsm paper, with the colour plates printed on FSC-approved Essential Gloss 115gsm paper. It will be casebound with Wibalin Buckram Blueberry 565, with silver foil blocking and white endpapers, and a dust jacket printed on FSC-approved 130gsm silk paper.
Born to a working-class family in Nottingham in 1941, Doug Scott began climbing in Derbyshire, soon progressing to the cliffs of Snowdonia. He became a climbing instructor and completed his first Alpine season at the age of seventeen.
In 1965, aged twenty-four, he went on his first expedition to the Tibesti Mountains. It was to be the start of a love affair with the world’s high mountains. On 24 September 1975, he and his climbing partner Dougal Haston became the first Britons to reach the summit of Mount Everest, and they returned home national heroes.
In total, Scott made forty-five expeditions to the high mountains of Asia, reaching the summits of forty peaks. With the exception of his ascent of the south-west face of Everest with Haston during Chris Bonington’s 1975 expedition, he made all his climbs in lightweight or alpine style, without the use of artificial oxygen. He reached the highest peaks on all seven continents – ‘the seven summits’.
Scott was made a CBE in 1994 and was a former president of the Alpine Club. In 1999 he received the Royal Geographical Society Patron’s Gold Medal, and in 2011 he was awarded the Piolets d’Or Lifetime Achievement award, during the presentation of which his mountaineering style was described as ‘visionary’. In 1975 he founded Community Action Nepal (CAN), a UK-based charity whose aim is to support the mountain people of Nepal.
Scott was diagnosed with cancer in March 2020 and passed away aged 79 at his home in Cumbria in December 2020. His final book, Kangchenjunga, will be published posthumously in July 2021.
- Title: Kangchenjunga
- Subtitle: The Himalayan giant
- Author: Doug Scott
- Imprint: Vertebrate Publishing
- ISBN: 978-1-912560-19-6
- Rights: Worldwide
- Publication date: 1 July 2021
- Edition: First
- Size: 240mm x 162mm
- Extent: 272 pages
- Cover: Hardback Royal Jacketed
- Weight: 600g
- Retail price: £24.00