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In Some Lost Place

The first ascent of Nanga Parbat's Mazeno Ridge

ISBN:
978-1-910240-37-3
Author:
Format:
Hardback (224pp)
Publication:
  • Hardback £24.00
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SIGNED COPIES

SHORTLISTED - 2015 Boardman Tasker Prize

In the summer of 2012, a team of six climbers set out to attempt the first ascent of one of the great unclimbed lines of the Himalaya – the giant Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat, the world’s ninth highest mountain. At ten kilometres in length, the Mazeno is the longest route to the summit of an 8,000-metre peak. Ten expeditions had tried and failed to climb this enormous ridge. Eleven days later two of the team, Sandy Allan and Rick Allen, both in their late fifties, reached the summit. They had run out of food and water and began hallucinating wildly from the effects of altitude and exhaustion. Heavy snow conditions meant they would need another three days to descend the far side of the ‘killer mountain’.

‘I began to wonder whether what we were doing was humanly possible. We had climbed the Mazeno and reached the summit, but we both knew we had wasted too much energy. In among the conflicting emotions, the exhaustion and the elation, we knew our bodies could not sustain this amount of time at altitude indefinitely, especially now we had no water. The slow trickle of attrition had turned into a flood; it was simply a matter of time before our bodies stopped functioning. Which one of us would succumb first?’

In Some Lost Place is Sandy Allan’s epic account of an incredible feat of endurance and commitment at the very limits of survival – and the first ascent of one of the last challenges in the Himalaya.


Special edition RRP £30. SOLD OUT.

General release hardback RRP £24.

Sandy is speaking at Eden Court, Inverness, on the 27 January 2016, click HERE for details.

Sandy Allan was born and raised in Dalwhinnie in the Highlands of Scotland, and has been climbing since his teens. During the 1980s and 1990s he established many hard new winter and mixed climbs in Scotland, and he continues to be an active climber and new route developer. He is an IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide and has guided clients to the summits of many of the highest mountains in the world, including Mount Everest, Cho Oyu and Nanga Parbat. As well as guiding in the Himalaya, Sandy has been involved in many expeditions, including the Muztagh Tower, Lhotse West and the Scottish Direct Route on the South Face of Pumori. In 2012, over the course of eighteen days and in alpine style, he and his partner Rick Allen completed the first ascent of one of the Himalaya’s most coveted unclimbed lines – the Mazeno Ridge of Nanga Parbat. In recognition of their ascent, Rick and Sandy were awarded the 2013 Piolet d’Or.

  • Title: In Some Lost Place
  • Sub-title: The first ascent of Nanga Parbat's Mazeno Ridge
  • Author: Sandy Allan
  • Imprint: Vertebrate Publishing
  • ISBN: 978-1-910240-37-3
  • Rights: Worldwide
  • Publication date: 15 July 2015 (1 July limited edition)
  • Edition: First
  • Size: 234mm x 156mm
  • Extent: 224 pages, black and white with 2x 16pp colour plates
  • Cover: Hardback
  • Weight: 600g
  • Retail price: £24 (£30 limited edition)

Also available as an ebook:

  • Imprint: Vertebrate Digital
  • ISBN: 978-1-910240-38-0
  • Publication Date: 15 July 2015
  • Price: £24
'This is a worthy addition to the canon of great British mountaineering literature, and also boasts beautiful colour photos and diagrams that dovetail perfectly with the narrative.'
Press and Journal
 
'I know the author Sandy Allan, I know the outcome of this remarkable climbing achievement and yet, due to the quality of the story telling, I was still gripped right to the very end. I think "In Some Lost Place" is set to be a modern mountaineering classic; not just for recounting a Piolet D'Or award winning adventure but also for the psychological insights into this rare breed of people with their remarkable skills and mental toughness.'
Bill Mumford, Amazon reviewer
 
'If it weren't for the seriousness and greatness of the climb, the story would be a huge joke, and a good one at that: the coveted first ascent of the 10-kilometre Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat (the longest route on any of the 8000-metre peaks) - not by some young hyperfit climbing-mag cover star, but by two Scots in their mid- or late fifties, who simply refused to give up. For this reason alone you got to love this book!'
Bucherberg, Amazon reviewer
 

'In Some Lost Place is a powerful and empathetic account about the dreams of men and the way that many climbers are willing to punish themselves in order to fulfil their ambitions. I knew the ending of the story, but at times I felt that surely the ending I knew could not be possible!

There is a fine line between success and disaster on the highest mountains in the world and this adventure carries the reader on a truly remarkable journey along the finest of lines.'
Robert N, Amazon reviewer
 
'Having previously attending a presentation by Sandy on this amazing feat I was keen to read his account of this incredible adventure. The book is a honest account and an brilliant insight into high altitude climbing and what drives people to take on such challanges. The book touches on Sandy's path to climb the Mazeno and also has wonderful photographs taken on the trip. I would recommend this for anyone with an interest in mountaineering/adventure reading.'
Dr. D. J. Arnold
 
'Mountaineering books tend to follow a fairly predictable pattern. Expedition through exotic locations; long arduous haul up snowy slopes; a near death experience at high altitude; rounded off with some metaphysical reflections.
 
Scottish mountaineer Sandy Allan’s account of his epic climb on the Mazeno ridge of Nanga Parbat (8,126 mtrs), observes the conventions. But he manages to rise above the cliches to produce one of the best adventure tales I’ve read in years.'
Iain Macwhirter
 
'I have no interest in climbing an 8,000m peak, and seldom read books about it. However, publisher Vertebrate kindly sent In Some Lost Place over so I thought I’d open my mind and give it a go. Guess what? it’s really good.
Due to my lack of interest in alpinism, I hadn’t heard of Sandy Allan, although he’s clearly been on the scene for quite a while. Indeed, one of the most amazing things about his ascent of Nanga Parbat via the Mazeno Ridge is that both he and his partner, Rick Allen, were in their late 50s at the time. Maybe I will take up Himalayan climbing in a few years’ time then, because Sandy’s book has got me inspired.'
Crag Banter
 
Check out this book and see what you think. This is my pick of the year and perhaps of the decade. Highly recommended!'
Mike Nash, Federation of Mountain Clubs of British Columbia
 
'This is Sandy's first book and a very fine one at that, of which he should be justly proud. I found I could re-read sections and pick up something new each time, whether a small point of detail or reminiscence from the past. Perhaps Sandy might find time in years to come to relate some of his other adventures in his own special engaging way!'
Brian Shackleton, 2016 Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal

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